Michael Lary • May 30, 2023

Assisted Braking Devices (ABD's)

Effective September 1, 2023

The Source will adopt an Assisted-Braking Device (ABD) only policy for all top rope and lead belaying in the gym. 

WHO is subject to the policy change?

All top rope and lead climbing belayers must use an approved ABD (Assisted Braking Device) type belay device when belaying another climber.


WHAT devices will be permitted?

Approved devices will include both passive geometric brake assist such as the Black Diamond Pilot, Edelrid Jul series, and Mammut Smart; and active brake assist, such as the Beal Birdie, Petzl GriGri, and Trango Vergo.


WHEN is this being implemented?

Beginning June 1, 2023, participants in our Climb 201 class will be taught using the Jul2. Participants in the Climb301 class will be encouraged to use an ABD; otherwise, they may need additional follow-up instruction.


Beginning September 1, 2023, non-assisted belay devices (tube-style, ATCs or similar) will no longer be allowed for belaying at the Source Climbing Center. 


WHERE can climbers and belayers get and ABD device?

The Source has the Petzl GriGri and Edelrid Jul2 available in our pro shop. Members can take advantage of a 20% sale on these devices starting June 1st through August 1st. Non-members can get 10% off.


WHY the change?

As climbing evolves, so does the equipment used in our sport. The ATC and similar tube-style devices are still effective tools; however, we believe that using ABD’s in the gym provides these advantages:

  • Better serve customers – As the industry evolves, it is important we keep our clients up-to-date. ABD’s are now the very common, and nearly all gyms in WA and OR are requiring to ABDs.
  • Better Instruction – ABD’s are currently not covered in our regular instruction. ABD’s are slightly more complex and require some additional information not in our current classes. The belay fundamentals are nearly identical between a tube-style device and many of the ABDs offered today, so the skills taught are still transferable.
  • Reduce risk - Assisted Braking Devices (ABD) do not automatically catch a climber, but they do provide additional braking that can help stop a climber’s fall and hold the weight of the climber once activated.
  • Redundancy - Human error exists even with the most experienced climbers. There can be distractions, emergencies or misuse while belaying. ABDs can add redundancy to the belay system that is not provided by standard tube-style devices.


HOW do belayers/climbers make the switch?

First, make sure to ask for a belay check before using any new device in the facility. It only takes a few minutes, and you may even learn something new.


Second, climbers with a current Blue or Green belay card can get qualified instruction on new devices for free. Choose either: 

  • a free “Belay Experience” clinic on the last Monday of every month, or 
  • a custom 15-30 minute “Belay Experience” clinic when scheduled more than 48 hours in advance.


These will be clinics designed to help experienced belayers get qualified instruction using a new type of belay device based on the instructions of the manufacturer.

Register for Belay Experience

Questions? We’d like to hear from you. You can email us directly info@sourceclimbing.com

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Dear Climbers, We need your help to protect indoor climbing as a sport in Washington state . There is a bill moving through the Washington legislative session right now which is of critical importance to indoor climbing gyms, and we can benefit from the immediate support of three key legislators in our area. Click to EMAIL Rep. Greg Cheney, 18th District (Battle Ground, Salmon Creek) Click to EMAIL , Rep, Jim Walsh, 19th District (Longview) Click to EMAIL , Rep. Peter Abbarno, 20th District (La Center, Woodland, Ridgefield) Background Last April, the Washington Dept. of Labor & Industries sent a ‘cease and desist’ letter to a Washington climbing gym, stating they needed to close until they were permitted as an amusement park. While that may sound absurd to many, the reality is there is ambiguity in current state law which leaves climbing facilities exposed. If gyms were required to be treated as amusement parks instead of a sport, it could have wide-ranging negative impacts on how customers experience our facility, the equipment we use, and the type of climbing we can offer. In response to that action, we have partnered with other gyms across the state to propose legislation defining indoor climbing as a sport, not an “amusement”. We have been working proactively with legislators, department staff and the Washington Association for Justice over the past 9 months to produce an amended bill that everyone can support. This week, our bill passed out of committee and will be coming to a full vote on the House floor in the coming days . We ask that anyone wishing to preserve access to climbing facilities contact their local state representative as soon as possible in support of HB 2265 . Michael & Hanz Source Climbing Center 360-694-9096
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